Ballooning & Scenic Flights

A peaceful dawn or dusk balloon ride reveals sweeping vistas of the Southern California coast, wine country, rambling estates, and golf courses. For a champagne-fueled glimpse of the county at sunrise or sunset, followed by an hors d'oeuvres party, contact Skysurfer Balloon Company (tel. 800/660-6809 or 858/481-6800; www.sandiegohotairballoons.com). The rate for a 40- to 60-minute flight is $135 per person weekdays, $145 Saturday and Sunday; sunrise flights leave from Temecula (70 min. north of downtown) and sunset flights are from Del Mar (25 min. from downtown). Or call California Dreamin' (tel. 800/373-3359 or 760/438-3344; www.californiadreamin.com). They charge $138 for 1-hour sunrise breakfast flight in Temecula, $148 for sunset flights in Del Mar that last up to 1 hour; both include champagne and a personalized flight photo. California Dreamin' also offers a biplane adventure over Temecula's wine country starting at $138 for two people. You may also be interested in the Temecula Balloon & Wine Festival held in early June; call tel. 909/676-4713 or visit www.tvbwf.com for information.

Bird Watching

The birding scene is huge: More than 480 species have been observed in San Diego County, more than any other county in the United States. The area is a haven along the Pacific Flyway--the migratory route along the Pacific Coast--and the diverse range of ecosystems also helps to lure a wide range of winged creatures. It's possible for birders to enjoy four distinct bird habitats in a single day.

Among the best places for bird-watching is the Chula Vista Nature Center at Sweetwater Marsh National Wildlife Refuge (tel. 619/409-5900; www.chulavistanaturecenter.org), where you may spot rare residents like the light-footed clapper rail and the western snowy plover, as well as predatory species like the American peregrine falcon and northern harrier. The nature center also has aquariums for sharks and rays, aviaries featuring raptors and shorebirds, and a garden featuring native plants. Also worth visiting along the coast are the 25-acre Kendall Frost Marsh on the east side of Crown Point, in Mission Bay, which draws skimmers, shorebirds, brant and, in winter, the large-billed savannah sparrow; and the Torrey Pines State Reserve, north of La Jolla, a protected habitat for swifts, thrashers, woodpeckers, and wrentits. Inland, Mission Trails Regional Park is a 5,800-acre urban park that is visited by orange-crowned warblers, swallows, raptors, and numerous riparian species; and the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park makes an excellent day trip from San Diego--268 species of birds have been recorded here.

Birders coming to the area should obtain a copy of the free brochure "Birding Hot Spots of San Diego," available at the Port Administration Building, 3165 Pacific Hwy., and at the San Diego Zoo, Wild Animal Park, San Diego Natural History Museum, and Birch Aquarium. It is also posted online at www.portofsandiego.org/sandiego_environment/bird_brochure.asp. The San Diego Audubon Society is another source of birding information (tel. 619/682-7200; www.sandiegoaudubon.org.)

Biking

San Diego is on the verge of becoming the nation's preeminent bicycling destination, with millions of dollars earmarked for bicycle paths throughout the city and county, including one which will parallel the rail line as far as Oceanside. But already, San Diego is cyclist friendly, and was named "one of the top 10 cities in the U.S. to bicycle" by Bicycling magazine. Most major thoroughfares offer bike lanes. To obtain a detailed map by mail of San Diego County's bike lanes and routes, call Ride Link Bicycle Information (tel. 619/231-BIKE or 800/COMMUTE). You might also want to talk to the City of San Diego Bicycle Coordinator (tel. 619/533-3110) or the San Diego County Bicycle Coalition (tel. 858/487-6063). Always remember to wear a helmet; it's the law.

The paths around Mission Bay, in particular, are great for leisurely rides. The oceanfront boardwalk between Pacific Beach and Mission Beach can get very crowded, especially on weekends (but that's half the fun). Coronado has a 16-mile round-trip bike trail that starts at the Ferry Landing Marketplace and follows a well-marked route around Coronado to Imperial Beach, along the Silver Strand. The road out to Point Loma (Catalina Dr.) offers moderate hills and wonderful scenery. Traveling old State Route 101 (aka the Pacific Coast Hwy.) from La Jolla north to Oceanside offers terrific coastal views, along with plenty of places to refuel with coffee, a snack, or a swim. The 13-mile climb up steep switchbacks to the summit of 6,140-foot Mt. Palomar is perhaps the county's most invigorating challenge, and offers its most gleeful descent.

Bikes are allowed on the San Diego-Coronado ferry, the San Diego Trolley, and most city buses, at no charge. Cycling San Diego by Nelson Copp and Jerry Schad (Sunbelt Publications) is a good resource for bicyclists and is available at most local bike shops.

Rentals, Organized Bike Tours & Other Two-Wheel Adventures--Downtown, call Bike Tours San Diego, 509 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/238-2444), which offers free delivery as far north as Del Mar. Rates for a city/hybrid bike start at $18 for a day, and include helmets, locks, maps, and roadside assistance.

In Mission Bay, there's Mission Beach Club, 704 Ventura Place, off Mission Boulevard at Ocean Front Walk (tel. 858/488-8889), for 1-speed beach cruisers; Cheap Rentals, 3685 and 3221 Mission Blvd. (tel. 858/488-9070), for mountain bikes and more; and Hilton San Diego Resort, 1775 E. Mission Bay Dr. (tel. 619/276-4010), for multispeed bikes. In La Jolla, try California Bicycle, 7462 La Jolla Blvd. (tel. 858/454-0316), for front-suspended mountain bikes. In Coronado, check out Bikes and Beyond, 1201 First St. at the Ferry Landing Marketplace (tel. 619/435-7180), for beach cruisers and mountain bikes; they also offer surrey and skate rentals. Expect to pay $6 and up per hour for bicycles, $30 for 24 hours.

Adventurous cyclists might like to participate in the Rosarito-Ensenada 50-Mile Fun Bicycle Ride, held every April and September just across the border in Mexico. This event attracts more than 8,000 riders of all ages and abilities. It starts at the Rosarito Beach Hotel and finishes in Ensenada and rides along paved highway. For information, contact Bicycling West, Inc. (tel. 619/424-6084; www.rosaritoensenada.com).

Boating

Sailors have a choice of the calm waters of 4,600-acre Mission Bay, with its 26 miles of shoreline; the exciting San Diego Bay, which is one of the most beautiful natural harbors in the world; or the Pacific Ocean, where you can sail south to the Islas los Coronados (that is, the trio of uninhabited islets on the Mexico side of the border). There are more than 55,000 registered water craft docked at 26 marinas throughout the county.

Seaforth Boat Rental, 1641 Quivira Rd., Mission Bay (tel. 888/834-2628 or 619/223-1681; www.seaforthboatrental.com), has a wide variety of boats for bay and ocean. It rents 15- to 240-horsepower powerboats ranging from $55 to $115 an hour, 14- to 25-foot sailboats for $20 to $40 an hour, and ski boats and jet skis starting at $70 an hour. Half- and full-day rates are available. Canoes, kayaks, and pedal boats also available, as well as fishing boats and equipment. Seaforth has locations downtown at the Marriott San Diego Hotel & Marina, 333 W. Harbor Dr. (tel. 619/239-2628) and in Coronado at 1715 Strand Way (tel. 619/437-1514).

Mission Bay Sportcenter, 1010 Santa Clara Place (tel. 858/488-1004; www.missionbaysportcenter.com), rents sailboats, catamarans, sailboards, kayaks, jet skis, and motorboats. Prices range from $18 to $95 an hour, with discounts for 4-hour and full-day rentals. Private instruction is available for $30 per hour.

The Harbor Vacations Club, 1880 Harbor Island Dr. (tel. 619/298-6623), rents 55-foot Bluewater yachts, a 41-troller, a 32-foot catamaran, and a houseboat. Half-day, full-day, and overnight rentals are available.

Sail USA (tel. 619/298-6822) offers custom-tailored skippered cruises on a 34-foot Catalina sloop. A half-day bay cruise costs $275 for six passengers. Full-day and overnight trips are also available, as are trips to Ensenada and to Catalina.

Based at Shelter Island Marina, Classic Sailing Adventures (tel. 800/659-0141 or 619/224-0800; www.classicsailingadventures.com) offers two 4-hour sailing trips daily aboard Soul Diversion, a 38-foot Ericson. The afternoon cruise leaves at 1pm and a Champagne sunset sail departs at 5pm. The yacht carries a maximum of six passengers (minimum 2), and the $60-per-person price includes beverages and snacks.

Fishing

In the late 1940s, the waters off San Diego supplied as much as two-thirds of the nation's supply of tuna, so it's no wonder that San Diego offers exhilaration to sportfishers. The sportfishing fleet consists of more than 75 large commercial vessels and several dozen private charter yachts, and a variety of half-, full-, and multi-day trips are available. The saltwater fishing season kicks off each spring with the traditional Port of San Diego Day at the Docks, held the last weekend in April or at the beginning of May at Sportfishing Landing, near Shelter Island; for more information, call tel. 619/234-8791 or see www.sportfishing.org. Anglers of any age can fish free of charge without a license off any municipal pier in California. Public fishing piers are on Shelter Island (where there's a statue dedicated to anglers), Ocean Beach, and Imperial Beach.

Summer and fall are ideal for fishing, when the waters around Point Loma are brimming with bass, bonito, and barracuda; the Islas los Coronados, which belong to Mexico but are only about 18 miles from San Diego, are popular for abalone, yellowtail, yellowfin, and big-eyed tuna. Some outfitters will take you farther into Baja California waters on multi-day trips. Fishing charters depart from Harbor and Shelter Islands, Point Loma, the Imperial Beach pier, and Quivira Basin in Mission Bay (near the Hyatt Islandia Hotel). Participants over 16 need a California fishing license.

Rates for trips on a large boat average $35 for a half-day trip or $70 for a 3/4-day trip, or you can spring $90 for a 20-hour overnight trip to the Islas los Coronados--call around and compare prices. Prices are reduced for kids, and discounts are often available for twilight sailings; charters or "limited load" rates are also available. The following outfitters offer short or extended outings with daily departures: H & M Landing, 2803 Emerson (tel. 619/222-1144; www.hmlanding.com); Lee Palm Sportfishers, 2801 Emerson (tel. 619/224-3857; www.redrooster3.com); Point Loma Sportfishing, 1403 Scott St. (tel. 619/223-1627; www.pointlomasportfishing.com); and Seaforth Sportfishing, 1717 Quivira Rd. (tel. 619/224-3383; www.seaforthlanding.com). All of these shops rent tackle.

For freshwater fishing, San Diego's lakes and rivers are home to bass, channel and bullhead catfish, bluegill, trout, crappie, and sunfish. Most lakes have rental facilities for boats, tackle, and bait, and they also provide picnic and (usually) camping areas. A 1-day California State Fishing License costs $11; a 1-year license is $30. For information on lake fishing, call the city's Lakes Line tel. 619/465-3474.

For more information on fishing in California, contact the California Department of Fish and Game (tel. 858/467-4200; www.dfg.ca.gov). For fishing in Mexican waters, including the area off the Coronado Islands, angling permits are required. Most charter companies will take of the details, but if not, contact the Mexican Department of Fisheries, 2550 Fifth Ave., Suite 101, San Diego, CA 92103-6622 (tel. 619/233-6956).

Hang Gliding & Paragliding

The windy cliffs at the Torrey Pines Gliderport, 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Dr., La Jolla (tel. 877/359-8326; www.flytorrey.com), create one of the country's top spots for hang gliding and paragliding, sports which aren't for the timid, yet deliver a bigger thrill than your average roller coaster. The difference between the two nonmotorized sports is subtle: Hang gliders are suspended from a fixed wing, while paragliders hang from a parachute. In both instances, watching the pilots control these delicate crafts for hours along the brink of the precipice is awesome. A 20- to 30-minute tandem flight with a qualified instructor costs $150. Even if you don't muster the courage to try a tandem flight, sitting at the cafe here and watching the graceful acrobatics is stirring.

If you already have experience, you can rent or buy equipment from the shop at the Gliderport--note that the conditions here are considered "P3"--or take lessons from the crew of able instructors. A 3- or 4-day beginner's package is $795, or lessons run $150 to $250 per day. Winds in December and January are slightest (that is, least conducive for the activities here), while March through June is best. The Gliderport is open daily from 9:30am to sunset.

Hiking & Walking

San Diego's mild climate makes it a great place to walk or hike most of the year, and the options are diverse. Walking along the water is particularly rewarding. The best beaches for walking are Coronado, Mission Beach, La Jolla Shores, and Torrey Pines, but pretty much any shore is a good choice. You can also walk around most of Mission Bay on a series of connected footpaths. If a four-legged friend is your walking companion, head for Dog Beach in Ocean Beach or Fiesta Island in Mission Bay--two of the few areas where dogs can legally go unleashed. The Coast Walk in La Jolla offers supreme surf-line views.

The Sierra Club sponsors regular hikes in the San Diego area, and nonmembers are welcome to participate. There's always a Wednesday mountain hike, usually in the Cuyamaca Mountains, sometimes in the Lagunas; there are evening and day hikes as well. Most are free of charge. For a recorded message about outings, call tel. 619/299-1744, or call the office at tel. 619/299-1743 weekdays from noon to 5pm or Saturday from 10am to 4pm. Volunteers from the Natural History Museum (tel. 619/232-3821) also lead nature walks throughout San Diego County.

Marian Bear Memorial Park, also known as San Clemente Canyon (tel. 619/581-9952 for park ranger), is a 10-mile, round-trip trail that runs directly underneath Highway 52. Most of the trail is flat, hard-packed dirt, but some areas are rocky. There are benches and places to sit and have a quiet picnic. From Highway 52 west, take the Genesee South exit; at the stop light, make a U-turn and an immediate right into the parking lot. From Highway 52 east, exit at Genesee and make a right at the light, then an immediate right into the parking lot.

Lake Miramar Reservoir has a 5-mile, paved, looped trail with a wonderful view of the lake and mountains. Take I-15 north and exit on Mira Mesa Boulevard. Turn right on Scripps Ranch Boulevard, then left on Scripps Lake Drive, and make a left at the Lake Miramar sign. Parking is free, but the lot closes at 6:30pm. There's also a pleasant path around Lake Murray. Take the Lake Murray Boulevard exit off I-8 and follow the signs.

Other places for scenic hikes listed earlier in this chapter include Torrey Pines State Reserve, Cabrillo National Monument, and Mission Trails Regional Park. Guided walks are also offered at each of these parks.

Jogging

An invigorating route downtown is along the wide sidewalks of the Embarcadero, stretching around the bay. A locals' favorite place to jog is the sidewalk that follows the east side of Mission Bay. Start at the Visitor Information Center and head south past the Hilton to Fiesta Island. A good spot for a short run is La Jolla Shores Beach, where there's hard-packed sand even when it isn't low tide. The beach at Coronado is also a good place for jogging, as is the shore at Pacific Beach and Mission Beach--just watch your tide chart to make sure you won't be there at high tide.

Safety note: When jogging alone, avoid secluded areas of Balboa Park, even in broad daylight.

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

San Diego's underwater scene ranges from the magnificent giant kelp forests of Point Loma to the nautical graveyard off Mission Beach called Wreck Alley. There is an aquatic Ecological Reserve off the La Jolla Cove; fishing and boating activity has been banned in the 533-acre reserve since 1929, but diving and snorkeling is welcome, and it's a reliable place to spot the rare garibaldi, California's state fish, as well as the rare giant black sea bass. Shore diving here, or at nearby La Jolla Shores is common, and there are dive shops to help you get set up. But boat dives are the rule. Check out the Islas los Coronados, a trio of uninhabited islets off Mexico (a 90-min. boat ride from San Diego), where seals, sea lions, eels, and more cavort against a landscape of boulders (watch for swift currents); and the Yukon, a 366-foot Canadian destroyer that was intentionally sunk in 2000, 2 miles off the Big Dipper roller coaster at Wreck Alley, joining four other drowned vessels. Water visibility in San Diego is best in the fall, while in the spring, plankton blooms can reduce visibility to 20 feet.

The San Diego Oceans Foundation (tel. 619/523-1903; www.sdoceans.org) is a local non-profit organization devoted to the stewardship of local marine waters. The website features good information about the local diving scene. San Diego Divers Supply, 4004 Sports Arena Blvd. (tel. 619/224-3439) and 5701 La Jolla Blvd. (tel. 858/459-2691), will set you up with scuba and snorkeling equipment. Blue Escape Dive and Charter (tel. 619/223-3483) and Scuba San Diego (tel. 800/586-3483 or 619/260-1880; www.scubasandiego.com) are other good outfits.

Skating

Gliding around San Diego, especially the Mission Bay area, on inline skates is the quintessential Southern California experience. In Pacific Beach, rent a pair of regular or inline skates from Resort Watersports (tel. 858/488-2582), based at the Catamaran Resort, 3981 Mission Blvd.; or Pacific Beach Sun and Sea, 4539 Ocean Blvd. (tel. 858/483-6613). In Coronado, go to Bikes and Beyond, 1201 First St. and at the Ferry Landing (tel. 619/435-7180). Be sure to ask for protective gear.

If you'd rather ice skate, try the Ice Capades Chalet at University Towne Center, La Jolla Village Drive at Genesee Street (tel. 858/452-9110).

Surfing

With its miles of beaches, San Diego is a popular surf destination. Some of the best spots include Windansea, La Jolla Shores, Pacific Beach, Mission Beach, Ocean Beach, and Imperial Beach. In North County, you might consider Carlsbad State Beach and Oceanside. The best waves are in late summer and early fall; surfers visiting in winter or spring will want to bring along a wet suit. For surf reports, check out www.surfingsandiego.com or www.surfline.com.

If you didn't bring your own board, they are available for rent at stands at many popular beaches. Many local surf shops also rent equipment; they include La Jolla Surf Systems, 2132 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla Shores (tel. 858/456-2777), and Emerald City-The Boarding Source, 1118 Orange Ave., Coronado (tel. 619/435-6677).

For surfing lessons, with all equipment provided, check with Kahuna Bob's Surf School (tel. 800/KAHUNAS or 760/721-7700; www.kahunabob.com) based in Encinitas; San Diego Surfing Academy (tel. 800/447-SURF or 760/230-1474; www.surfsdsa.com), which does lessons at Tourmaline in Pacific Beach and San Elijo State Beach in Cardiff by the Sea; and Surf Diva (tel. 858/454-8273; www.surfdiva.com), the world's first surfing school for women and girls (with one instructor dude), based in La Jolla.

Swimming

Most San Diego hotels have pools, and there are plenty of other options for the visitor. Downtown, head to the YMCA, 500 W. Broadway, between Columbia and India streets (tel. 619/232-7451). There's a $7 day-use fee for non-YMCA members staying in a local hotel; towels are supplied. It's open Monday through Friday from 5:30am to 9pm, Saturday from 8am to 1pm. In Balboa Park, you can swim in the Kearns Memorial Swimming Pool, 2229 Morley Field Dr. (tel. 619/692-4920). The fee for using the public pool is $2 for adults; call for seasonal hours and laps-only restrictions. In Mission Bay, you'll find the fabulous indoor Plunge, 3115 Oceanfront Walk, (tel. 858/488-3110), part of Belmont Park since 1925. The huge pool has 10 lap lanes and a viewing area inside, plus full gym facility. It's open Monday through Friday from 5:30 to 8am and noon to 8pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 4pm. Admission is $3.50 for adults, $3.25 for children.

In La Jolla, you can swim at the Jewish Community Center, 4126 Executive Dr. (tel. 858/457-3030). It has an ozone pool (kept clean by an ozone generator), instead of the typical chlorinated pool. It's open to the public Monday through Thursday from 6am to 7:30pm, Friday from 6am to 6pm, Saturday from 11am to 6pm, and Sunday from 8:30am to 6pm. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children under 17.

Swimmers may want to compete in (or watch) a rough-water swim. These include the La Jolla Rough Water Swim (tel. 858/456-2100), held in early September.

Tennis

There are 1,200 public and private tennis courts in San Diego. Public courts include the La Jolla Tennis Club, 7632 Draper, at Prospect Street (tel. 858/454-4434), which is free and open daily from dawn until the lights go off at 9pm. At the Balboa Tennis Club, 2221 Morley Field Dr., in Balboa Park (tel. 619/295-9278), court use is free, but reservations are required. The courts are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 8pm, Saturday and Sunday from 8am to 6pm; for lessons, call tel. 619/291-5248. The ultra-modern Barnes Tennis Center, 4490 W. Point Loma Blvd., near Ocean Beach and SeaWorld (tel. 619/221-9000; www.tennissandiego.com), has 20 lighted hard courts and four clay courts; they're open daily from 8am to 9pm. Court rental is $5 to $10 an hour, instruction an additional $12 to $14 per hour.